Pemuteran Bali is as far as you can get from all the hustle and bustle in the south. Located north-west of Bali this village is probably the less visited. Travelers who do come here often stay for just a day to do one thing: scuba diving.
But after staying in this quiet village for a couple of nights I think it’s a really relaxing place. It is unfortunately not often included in the itinerary of many travellers.
This pretty unknown village is about a 1 hour drive from Lovina. If you are coming from this direction and you have almost arrived you’ll be greeted with stunning green mountain slopes (during the rainy season) which dominate the village.
The village consists mainly of a main coast road with mountains on one side. On the other there is the beautiful beach and most big resorts. Surprisingly though, between these resorts there are little dirt roads that take you to the houses where the locals live.
That’s when you realise that here tourism is still very much underdeveloped and that the local people of this fishing village are relatively poor compared to other parts of the island.
Little houses surrounded by a garden and a cow munching next to the front door is a very common scene here. I can imagine that this area is how Lovina or Candidasa looked liked in the 1980’s!
The Sea Guardians of Pemuteran
But the great thing is something you won’t immediately see when you stay there. Unlike the south the villagers here are pretty much involved in preserving the valuable nature in their area.
For instance the community have set up a so-called ‘Sea Guardians’ who ensure that laws to prevent destructive fishing and to preserve the coral reefs are maintained. Local trained staff are also hired to grow new coral reefs just off the coast of the beach.
This marine conservation project which is managed by the villagers has become a success. It is world-wide acknowledged by being awarded with the 2012 Equator Prize, an UNDP Equator Award for Community Based Development.
So despite the arrival of the big resorts the local people still take pride of their nature and culture.
Nevertheless this area of Bali is very poor and the tourism facilities are quite minimal. For one, internet access it not widely found except at big resorts.
There are no shops selling colourful Balinese souvenirs to take home with you, instead you’ll only find those that sell food, drinks and other household utilities. Pretty refreshing after visiting many tourist villages where local Balinese are practically pushed away.
And one important thing you should know when you plan to stay here is that there are no ATM machines. The nearest is probably Lovina. So bring a credit card to pay at the resort and some extra cash.
5 Things to do in Pemuteran
Being close to Bali’s only national park has its advantages and Pemuteran benefits from the easy access to this park. Once you’ve settled in this sleepy fishermen village you soon will found out some great things to do in Pemuteran.
1.Diving and snorkeling at Menjangan island
Pemuteran’s main attraction is the beach and their easy access to the best scuba diving and snorkeling site on Bali, Menjangan island. You’ll find this island on only a 20 minutes drive from Pemuteran.
Besides Menjangan island you can also go snorkeling just off the coast of Pemuteran beach at the Bio Rock. This is a reef restoration project where they use electrical currents to grow coral.
Most of the resorts have their own dive center while in the village along the main road there are dive operators like Easy Divers and Yos Dive that offer Padi courses too. They also provide the possibility to charter a boat while offering guided dives.
2. Just stroll along Pemuteran Beach
The beaches in this part of the island are also far nicer than the ones in the south of Bali. From what we have experienced there are beautiful stretches of beach in front of Taman Salini and the Taman Sari hotel.
We have also found a deserted beach that is really eye-catching. To get there you need to find a little red sign on the side of the road pointing towards the sea-side with ‘Pura Pucak Gunung Beratan Pemuteran’ on it. It’s somewhere near Adi Assri and Taman Salini.
Sounds a bit vague, but I’m sure that once you are there you will easily spot it.
3. Visit the Pura Tirta Pulaki temple
When you want to do something cultural then there’s the Pura Tirta Pulaki. With the mountain wall looming behind the complex, this recently restored temple is a pretty mystical sight.
But while you admire this temple, beware of the naughty monkeys. Like in other places in Bali they can get pretty aggressive so watch out that they don’t snatch your sunglasses, bottles of water or even worse your camera.
4. Hiking at Bali Barat National Park
Besides diving you can also go hiking at West Bali National Park (also known as Bali Barat National Park). If you are lucky enough you might spot the Bali Starling in its natural environment. This beautiful and endangered bird is only found on this island. You can arrange trekking tours (around USD30) and bird watching tours (around USD55) at the resorts.
But you can also drive to Labuhan Lalang (the same location if you want to go snorkeling at Menjangan island) were park rangers can arrange the necessary papers and a guide.
Here at the National Park office they offer one day trekking tours. Tours can also start at Cekik village on the other side of West Bali National Park.
You need an authorized guide to get you into the park and depending how long you want to go the price ranges between USD 15 and USD 50 excluding transport and food.
5. Visit the Turtle Hatchery
If you return to Pemuteran village after a dive or hiking tour make sure you make some time to visit the Turtle Hatchery at the dive resort Reef Seen. Their turtle breeding and release program aims to increase the survival chances of turtles. They do this by creating conservation awareness among villagers. Plus they actually keep hatchlings so they can grow big enough to survive the open sea.
If you want you can help them out by becoming a sponsor and when they are planning a turtle release, you can actually join them.
Restaurants in Pemuteran
Compared to other villages in Bali you will not find a variety of restaurants in Pemuteran. You can either eat at the resorts or go for a stroll along the main road and check out the small number of local warungs.
Over the years more local Balinese have opened restaurants too, usually in conjunction with a homestay. Most of those menus look the same so try to find a place where the ambiance is great too.
It is a surprise to see that most of the restaurants in Pemuteran are not trying to use local products or organic ingredients as much as they can. But of course, they do have Indonesian socialities on their menu. These are our 2 favorite restaurant in Pemuteran:
When you are staying more than a couple of days it can be pretty difficult to find something different than Indonesian food. We shameless admit that the Greek Restaurant at Taman Selini is a delicious change from eating rice for days. They are known in town for their food so for a guaranteed good lunch or dinner you can always go here.
If you solely want to eat healthy conscious food where organic and local products are used stay a few days at Villa Puri Ganesha. The owner, Diana is a well-known raw food chef and in her restaurant she mixes her skills into a delicious menu. It varies from local dishes to strictly vegetarian. Red meat is not served here, only local chicken, fish and other ingredients.
Places to stay in Pemuteran
The places to stay in Pemuteran are not yet really eco oriented. However the ones that you’ll seem to be more conscious about the environment compared to those in the south of Bali.
Perhaps owners who choose to create a business here do so because of the beauty of the area and therefore take steps to maintain it.
Coral protection initiatives and/or community support are an important part of their philosophy at the following 4 of our favorite resorts:
1. Reef Seen
The wonderful thing about this little resort at the beach, besides only having 8 rooms, is that they focus on what they are most passionate about. Here everything is about diving and marine conservation. They keep the rates for their accommodation pretty low as they want visitors to fully enjoy their diving holiday.
Rooms with garden view have either air conditioning or a fan and only cold water. The sea view rooms have hot water plus air conditioning. So if you need a piece of luxury then it is available.
On their premises you can visit the Turtle Hatchery where you can see cute turtles. The beach is also just a couple of meters away, so you’ll have easy access to Pemuteran beach. You can also watch and join a local dance group who practices here.
2. Puri Ganesha Villas
This boutique resort has 4 extraordinary villas located far away and it is hidden from all the craziness in life. Here you will enter a world of taste (and I don’t only mean the villa’s interior but the food too) and charm that will make you want to stay much longer.
The owners are also very much involved with the community. All staff members are from the village and their Pemuteran Children Foundation aims at providing chances for children living under the poverty line. The foundation has provided children with shoes, uniforms, working experience and further educational possibilities.
3. Matahari Beach Resort & Spa
As soon you enter this Balinese beach resort you will be surrounded by beautiful decorations.
On the premises you will find nice Balinese details while decorations in the rooms are all made locally.
The Matahari Beach Resort is also actively involved in supporting the nearby community by providing basic education to children. They’ve created a community meeting area called the ‘Bale’ for the villagers. And they are financially supporting Benih Kasih, a home for less fortunate children and orphans.
4. Taman Sari Bali Resort & Spa
Taman Sari has villas, suites and deluxe rooms. The villas are massive and look more like private houses with swimming pools.
The suites and deluxe rooms are set in a tropical garden. The whole resort is pretty big including their stretch of beach. This mid range accommodation is a good place to do some snorkeling since the resort has joined with the local coral restoration project.
Staying on a budget at Home stays in Pemuteran
Besides resorts there are also home stays in the village. All of them are located on the mountain side along the main road, so you have to cross the road to the beach.
But if you plan to do some serious scuba diving only and don’t want to spend too much money on accommodation then a home stay might be a good option. Most of these home stays are owned by private dive shops in the village.